92-94+ The Wine Advocate, January 2020 Week 2
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux is a beautiful wine in the making, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis and smoky dark berries that mingle with notions of grilled squab, licorice and rich loamy soil. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly muscular, with an ample and concentrated core framed by powdery tannins and lively acids. Fermented with 60% whole cluster, this is another cuvée that was formerly matured entirely in new barrels but saw only 66% new oak this year. Produced from very old vines, the Champeaux was often purchased by Maison Leroy in the days before the Dugat family began domaine bottling.